Throwback Thursday: Chocolate Cream Puffs with Mascarpone Filling from Baking Chez Moi

Throwback to July 2017 when Food52 Baking Club was going through Dorie Greenspan’s book Baking Chez Moi – it was a month of pure indulgence and there are several recipes that I will come back to again and again – like her custardy apple squares, her double mint milk chocolate mousse and gelee and these: her chocolate cream puffs with rose flavored mascarpone filling.

I’ve come to find out that cream puffs are one of my daughter’s very favorite things and Turkish delight is up there as well, so during the school holidays as a special treat one day for being the only 2 girls in a house full of boys we held a little high tea in her new, very girly bedroom. It featured many little treats that we had been making during that time period (like the Tartine shortbread and ANZAC bikkies from Dorie’s Cookies), but this was the icing on the cake for us.

The thing that’s unique to these little choux pastries is the cocoa powder. I’m only just starting to dabble in making choux pastry, so I felt like I was really taking a risk trying these out. I like Dorie’s method for making choux, taking note to bring the water and butter to a boil before adding the flour (I went through a rut a while back where I tried 4 times to make choux and I rage quit only to find out I was adding the flour too early), and slowly incorporating the eggs into the flour mixture after it has sat for a bit and it’s been mixed to cool it down. I love that with the smaller size I can just use a cookie scoop to portion them. And I love the ease of filling them because you just cut off the top and use a spoon.

It’s the simple things that make this recipe so approachable and the flavor that makes them so beautiful!

She’s already talking about the next time we can have a high tea (or go to Max Brenner again – am I the only one who thinks it’s too expensive for what it is?!) and I think maybe during the next school holidays I’ll have to oblige her. Maybe we’ll find a fondue set or a chocolate fountain to be part of it.

Even her Phoebe doll dressed up for the party. 😉 The other items on our high tea platter were ham and cheese toasties, chicken nuggets and sausage rolls. And we had to have scones with jam and cream of course. We let the boys sample the leftovers. =)

The Fearless Baker: Lemon-Rosemary Madeleines

I’ve had my Madeleine pan in the freezer for over a week now, waiting for some free time to have another go at making them. And since I had lemon zest and rosemary on hand, it seemed too perfect not to try Erin McDowell’s variation from The Fearless Baker. And spoiler alert…

…they have a hump! I think I’ve finally worked out what to do with my oven to achieve that characteristic Madeleine appearance and I’m so happy that it wasn’t all that difficult after all, and the recipe was really quick to throw together.

You whisk together eggs and sugar until it’s light and frothy, add vanilla and lemon zest and then add your dry ingredients (flour, baking powder and salt). Slowly pour in some melted butter and continue whisking until fully incorporated, then stir in some chopped fresh rosemary. I then refrigerated the mixture for about an hour and preheated the oven.

I scooped the dough using my #30 scoop and popped them into the oven (a much cooler oven than recommended) and baked them for 12 minutes. I did pull them out at 10 but they were still liquidy in the center, but 2 minutes more did the trick.

I wish they weren’t SO golden around the edges, but I’m not sure I can really correct that with my current set up. This recipe made 22 using my normal pan and the first batch I cooked at the recommended temperature and at 8 minutes they were starting to have a hump but they were already looking pretty dark. So the second batch was done at a lower temperature for longer and next time I make them I’ll try that same method!

We really enjoyed the flavour of these. I put in extra rosemary and I could have easily added more, I love the flavour so much. I have one more recipe for this book this month, and it’s an absolute beauty.  That’ll be up on Friday!

Baking: From My Home to Yours: Coffee Caramel Pots de Creme and book review

I made some friands yesterday which left me with 5 egg yolks to use and I still needed to try one more recipe from Baking: From My Home to Yours for the month so it was the perfect time to make pots de creme!

I’ve made one of Dorie’s pots de creme recipes in the past (not sure which book it came from) and loved it, so thought this should be a rather simple task for extraordinary results. Well…I’m not sure this has been my week cooking wise, because I’ve had an unusual amount of trouble.

First when I combined the sugar and the coffee in a saucepan and stirred to get the sugar to melt and caramelize, the coffee started burning badly. So I had to scrap that and start again. For my second attempt, I just chucked the sugar into the saucepan until it turned into caramel, then I added the coffee and the warm milk/cream mixture. The caramel immediately seized so I had to bring it back up to boiling to get the caramel to separate from the coffee. Then from there I set it aside to infuse for 20 minutes and completed everything else as per the instructions – adding egg yolks, eggs, and the remaining sugar, creating the water bath, baking in a low oven. Pretty standard stuff.

The result…well it’s nice but we didn’t really get the caramel flavour, the coffee completely overtook the dessert. Which is not a bad thing, but not what we were looking forward to. Would I make these again? Definitely, but I wouldn’t use the coffee method that Dorie recommends. I’d just add some instant espresso to the milk/cream mixture. There’d be a whole lot less coffee wastage that way (it ended up being 2 cups of beans which is absurd for 6-8 dessert cups).

Baking: From My Home to Yours is an excellent book for the home baker. It has a wealth of different types of baked goods to choose from and all the recipes I’ve looked at seem very approachable and with good results (apart from my disappointing lack of caramel flavour in the pots de creme). I am glad I added this book to my cookbook shelf.

There are still many recipes I’d like to try from the book, and I’m sure I’ll be back with more recipes from it on Throwback Thursdays. If you want to join in on the fun, check out the Food52 Baking Club Facebook group and you’ll also get a chance to see what other bakers have done this month. I love this group,  especially given the access you get to cookbook authors – Dorie commented on my cinnamon squares yesterday! It’s a lot of fun.

To see the other two recipes I’ve tried from this book click on the links below:

Baking: From My Home to Yours: Traditional Madeleines

Food52 Baking Club is going through Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours this month so expect many many treats to be hitting the blog and Instagram. I have loved everything of Dorie’s that I have made so far from her two previous books that we’ve gone through and I am pretty sure this book will follow suit.

For my first bake, I finally tried out my new madeleine pan that I got for Christmas by attempting Dorie’s traditional madeleine recipe. It was really quick and simple to put together. Beating eggs and sugar with lemon zest and vanilla, then carefully folding in a flour mixture and then cooled melted butter. Refrigerate the batter for several hours and then bake in a hot oven for 11-13 minutes. Easy right?!

Well, I think madeleines are actually deceptively tricky, because I didn’t achieve the characteristic hump that you get from refrigerating the dough and I don’t yet know what I did wrong. Maybe the oven wasn’t hot enough or too hot? Maybe I overfilled the pan? But what I do know is that the recipe was yum (gobbled up in no time with our big family) and easy and I will try again to see if I can get it to work properly.

Dorie, I’m trying my best not to fail you!

 

 

Bouchon Bakery: Mille-feuille and book review

I was a bit apprehensive to make mille-feuille. I had no idea if re-rolling the scraps of puff pastry left over from the pithiviers would work and how the assembly of the dessert itself would work given the summer weather. But I pressed ahead and it turned out successful.

I rolled the puff pastry dough out to the size of a cookie sheet and baked it weighted down with another cookie sheet and a baking pan for over an hour. Since the bottom element is out on our oven, I’ve found that the cooking time and temperature are a lot closer to what recipes suggest (normally I would’ve burnt something to a crisp if I cooked it per the book). I used the leftover creme patisserie from the pithiviers as well, and mixed it with a simple French buttercream to create a mousseline. This was frozen in my 9×13″ pyrex casserole dish to ready for assembly. It was then as *simple* as cutting the pastry into 4 slices and the mousseline into 3 and sandwiching them together. I had a lot of help from Aaron at this stage because he has much better knife skills then I do. Getting the mousseline layered on the pastry proved challenging as it was warming up too quickly, but we worked it out by doing some fancy flipping over and back again. Then we just piped some whipped cream on top (cream whisked with vanilla and icing sugar mixture).

I loved how the dessert is flipped on its side to make it easier to cut. No mousseline seeping out the sides this way because you aren’t squashing it all together as you cut it. And it is incredibly delicious. We couldn’t fault it. If anything, I may have been tempted to add some passionfruit to the top, but that’s the Australian vanilla slice lover in me looking for that. It was absolutely perfect!

Bouchon Bakery cookbook has been a lot of fun to explore but there are a few real drawbacks for me. I understand how this is from a professional bakery, but a lot of the recipes do not translate to a home cook very well because of how much is leftover after you make a recipe that you either need to use in something else or chuck out. And the weighing of the eggs – like it is seriously aggravating. I was 5 grams off on an egg yolk measurement and had to crack into another egg just to get the tiniest bit out. I ended up using that egg as the egg wash for the pithivier, but still, I found it most unsatisfying to have to do this for each recipe.

That being said, everything I’ve made so far has been delicious, and the other recipes I’ve seen in the Facebook group have me wanting to make even more. Highest on my list are the cinnamon honey scones. Everyone has been making them and they sound and look amazing! I also still have a pate sucree in my freezer to use up, and I’ve been eyeing off the lemon meringue tart for a while now. So you’ll probably see a bit more of this book in future Throwback Thursday posts. For now, I’m planning how on earth I’m going to narrow down Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours to three must try recipes for next month!

To see the other two recipes I’ve tried from this book click on the links below:

Bouchon Bakery: Pithiviers

I had grand plans to make madeleines and macarons this month. Grand plans. But then I made this apricot tart because our tree was so full of fruit and it left me with extra pastry and extra almond cream and I simply couldn’t let it go to waste. So I poured over the Bouchon Bakery cookbook looking at every recipe that incorporated almond cream (the leftover pastry has been frozen) and saw this recipe for Pithiviers, something I’d never heard of before but was instantly intrigued by. Puff pastry from scratch. Frangipane that is creme patisserie and almond cream whisked together. I can use up the mixed dried fruit that was leftover from our Christmas pudding. I am in!

The puff pastry was obviously the most time consuming, mainly because of the refrigeration time in between folds. You take a simply pastry dough and fold it around a butter block, roll it and fold it again several times (refrigerating for a couple hours between each fold) in order to create this gloriously layered pastry.

For the pithiviers you cut out two 9 inch circles, pipe the filling one of them, then use an egg wash to seal the second one over the other. Egg wash the top and use a pairing knife to draw a design on top (I went with the flower that was described in the book).

This left me with about 600 grams of pastry so I put it in the fridge to use in another recipe.

For the filling I had to make a creme patisserie which is not really new to me, but the method was. Everything was whipped together in the mixer before it went on the heat, where normally you need to be super careful about scrambling the eggs when you incorporate it into the flour and milk and sugar.  I was also surprised that they used custard powder, but love how rich and yellow the creme patisserie became with it in there. I reserved the amount called for in the recipe and saved the rest for another day (more on that soon).

Then I simply put it back in the mixer with the almond cream and after they were mixed thoroughly together, I added about a cup of brandied dried fruits and folded it in. I then tried to pipe a nice spiral on the bottom pastry but ended up smoothing it into a mound because the dried fruits made it quite splotchy.

It bakes for almost 2 hours and in the last few minutes you brush a sugar syrup on top to give it a lovely glossy sheen. It looked beautiful and tasted amazing – Aaron said if I used an apple filling instead of the frangipane/fruit mixture it would taste just like his favorite apple turnovers (there is a recipe for such a treat in this book that I may have to surprise him with at some stage).

I’m really glad I found this recipe and look forward to working out how to use up that creme patisserie and puff pastry in the next few days. Bon appetit!